Computers & Internet - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

There are a lot of manuals available for sale. There are also a lot of manuals available for free. Are you looking to acquire any manual, or do you have a specific make and model device in mind? | Answered on Apr 21, 2014

Are you sure it is compatible,I have a few that just will not work on other doors,not universal on all like models. | Answered on Apr 19, 2014

the shaft is disconnected, disassemble and fix | Answered on Apr 13, 2014

There are three possibilities, listed below in order of probability.
1. Bad power cord or broken plug
2. Dirty or burned-out switch contacts
3. Bad motor brushes or other broken internal connection

First, inspect the power cord, especially at the plug. If the blades on the plug are heavily tarnished, polish them to ensure a good connection. If you are in the habit of disconnecting by yanking on the cord instead of pulling on the plug to remove it from the outlet, the problem is very likely a broken wire right at the plug. Have a helper hold the saw with the trigger on while you manipulate the cord at the plug. If the saw starts at all, you'll need to replace the plug.

If this doesn't work, the fault is at the saw itself. Unplug the saw and remove the cover (you will probably have to remove the blade to get at some of the screws). Use the resistance range on a multimeter to check for continuity across the switch while it is on. If the resistance is more than a couple of tenths of an ohm higher than that of the test leads connected directly together, the switch contacts are not in good condition. Check for continuity between the hot terminal of the switch and the hot prong on the plug, and between the neutral (white) wire to the motor and the neutral prong on the plug. Also, if you have a three-wire cord, check for continuity of the ground (green) wire from the case of the saw to the ground pin on the plug (the saw will work with this open, but you lose the safety protection of the ground wire if it is open).

If all of these check out, then you'll need to check the motor. First, look for a resettable breaker or thermal protector on the motor. This will be a short plastic rod or button (red, black or white color) on the brush end of the motor, if present. Push it in - if it clicks on the way in, it was tripped. Next, do a resistance check on the motor. You should have a low resistance from the switch to the neutral wire (i. e., through the motor). If it is much more than a few ohms, remove the brushes and clean the commutator with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Inspect the brushes - if they are broken or severely worn, replace them. Recheck the motor continuity after you put the brushes back in. If your first continuity check showed an open circuit and it still reads open, you may have a tripped or blow thermal protector in the motor (some internal thermal protectors are buried in the winding and can only be replaced by having the motor rewound).

Carefully check all electric connections before reassembling, and make sure no wires are pinched by case parts or the switch mechanism. Reassemble the saw completely before applying power. | Answered on Apr 10, 2014

It sounds like the sensors are either blocked or not connecting properly. Make sure the sensors at the base of the door have the LED's on | Answered on Apr 10, 2014

Holding the button is a forced override of the sensor. Make sure nothing is in the way of the sensor and that they are connected properly. | Answered on Apr 10, 2014


Well not knowing the model of your device i can tell you a few possibility's, If the fridge portion is working well than you either have a defective thermostat, or possibly a defective fan unit in the freer compartment or the condensation drain tube has plugged up and not draining the condensation and the heat exchanger has frozen up.
If you have the make and model of your device you probably can download any and all the service information you need to service your unit.
Are you mechanically inclined and ready to service the unit your self ? don`t forget you kneed the tools to do it as well ?
Let me know

Good luck Falco | Answered on Apr 05, 2014

there is a valve that open and closes as the need for more air flow from fridge to freezer it sounds like it is not working check that out and see if it is working | Answered on Apr 03, 2014

all washing machine are noisy it depend on brand but it is on all specially in small room or space | Answered on Mar 31, 2014

Return to the initial set up procedure. | Answered on Mar 28, 2014

This is a video, How to Remove Fuel Lines ,hope help. | Answered on Mar 25, 2014

I'm sorry, but your product is not shown. I can only suggest what I would do if I had that information. First, I would check the manufacturer's web site, particularly the support page. I would use the model number to search for the owner's manual, user's guide, or installation guide (the latter is usually part of the owner's manual, but some products have them published separately).

If you cannot find the manual on the manufacturer's web site, do a general internet search for the brand name, model number, and the term (manual OR guide). There are some sites that carry these for free, and others that may want a fee to download.

The file will most likely be in .pdf format, so you will need Acrobat Reader installed on your computer to read it. Adobe Adobe Reader free PDF viewer download | Answered on Mar 19, 2014

Hi Marie -

Since you didn't mention the brand and model of your stove - I can only offer general help. The first thing I recommend is that you shut off the power to the stove at the circuit breaker panel. It should be a double-wide 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker. Move the handle to the OFF position and leave it there for 30 seconds or so. Then return the handle to the ON position again. Doing this should "erase" the memory of the stove and reset the electronics. If the problem is not longer an issue - the F3 code should be gone. If it returns, we'll have to do more. That will require knowing the name of stove's manufacturer and model number. Let me know how you make out and if you need more help - provide the info requested and I'll see what else I can do. Good luck! | Answered on Mar 18, 2014

If you failed to regenerate the filter (Back flush with brine) then the water softener will not do its job. Check the brine tank, hoses, and timer. | Answered on Mar 12, 2014

If they were all in the same load, something must have fallen into/got mixed with the load, such as ink pen, etc. Full washer with hot water and add cleaning agent such as ammonia or plain detergent to clean the washer cycle.
To clean those shirts, add a 1/4 c of "Simply Green" / The Green Stuff ($ store brand) to temp appropriate water, directly spray on spots and let soak a few minutes, then wash (with or without detergent) and do a double rinse cycle. Naptha or Zote laundry BAR soap are good as "detergent". HTH | Answered on Mar 06, 2014

one of two things. the hoses are connected backwards or the valve on the hot hose is closed. i guess it could also be the water heater not working. | Answered on Mar 04, 2014

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